I replaced the standard turbo on my FJ20et in my Bluebird with one from a R33 Skyline. The starting point was a mostly stock
engine except it was running ~10 psi boost, 3” dump pipe back exhaust, Supra intercooler.

The result is a much more drivable car, notably:
 

It was quite a lot of work and set me back around $450, but I am happy with the result and can recommend the swap.
 

2.      Remove original turbo from the engine, along with any associated intake piping and oil lines. I found it easiest to remove the
exhaust manifold with the turbo.

3.      Bolt the new turbo onto the exhaust manifold and test fit on car. Note that it only had 10 – 20 mm clearance from the
engine mount. You may have problems with a different engine mount design.

4.      The R33 dump pipe was not remotely close to fitting on my car, so I fabricated a new one. To make the new dump pipe;

     a.       Measure up the space available for the dump pipe with the new turbo on the car, and sketched up a design.
     Mine simply needed a 90 deg bend to join up with the existing exhaust.

     b.      Buy a 3” 90 deg mandrel bend for the main dump pipe, a 2” press bend for the wastegate outlet and the
     required flanges. I chose to cut the flange off the turbo end of the R33 dump pipe and reuse it. In hindsight, this
     was not worth the effort.

     c.       Cut the 3” pipe to size. Getting the size right took a few attempts at trimming it to size and test fitting. It also
     required flattening the turbo end of the pipe slightly to fit the turbo flange.
 

     e.       Cut a section out of the 3” pipe where the 2” pipe joins up.

     f.        Tack it together with the welder and test fit again.

     g.       Weld it up. Note: if you are reusing the cast iron flange, you either need to have the right equipment and skills
     to weld it, or find someone who can. I chose the later option.

     h.       Weld in the oxygen sensor fitting. 

     i.         Smooth off the insides, be especially careful to remove any loose weld splatter and burs. 
 

6.      The R33 turbo is water cooled, unlike the original, so you need to run new water lines. I T-ed into the water pipes going to
and from the throttle body as my source of water.

     a.        I used 3/8” rubber heater hose for the water supply. The throttle body pipes are 1/2", so I; used 1/2" tee
     pieces, then ran a short length of 1/2" hose to a 1/2" to 3/8 reducer.

     b.      The turbo has 18 mm banjo fittings for the water. I got some fittings from Pirtek, and got them to crimp them
     on to the 3/8” rubber hose.
 

     a.       The turbo outlet is ~65 mm, but the remainder of my piping is 2”. I used a rubber PVC pipe joiner to connect
     to the turbo outlet.

     b.      From the joiner I ran a length of 2.25” exhaust pipe.
 

     d.      For the bends in the intake I used 2” mandrel bent exhaust pipe. For flexible joins I reused the rubber hose
     from the original intake piping.

8.      Connect everything up to the turbo. Before connecting anything, make sure that all pipes are clean, and don’t have any
debris, weld splatter, etc in them. It only takes a small chunk to destroy a turbo.

     a.       The original oil return pipe fits unmodified

     b.      The original air intake pipe fits unmodified

     c.       Fit the new water, oil inlet and compressor outlet piping.

     d.      Fit the new dump pipe. You should use gasket goo, or even better a gasket.

     e.       Install the oxygen sensor.
 

Figure 5. The installed turbo.
 

10.  Disconnect the high tension lead from the coil and turn the engine over using the starter motor to give the oil a chance to
flow through the turbo. Reconnect it.

11.  Start it up. Check for:

     a.       Oil and water leaks

     b.      That the water and oil pipe are getting warm (an indication that fluid is flowing).
 

Exhaust shop parts, total       $100

Mild steel exhaust pipe:

1 x       3” 90 deg mandrel bend

2 x       2” 45 deg mandrel bend

1 x       2” 90 deg mandrel bend

1 m      2” straight pipe

1 x       2” 90 deg press bend

200 mm 2.25” straight pipe

1 x       3” mild steel exhaust flange

1 x       Oxygen sensor weld-in fitting
 

Auto parts shop, total            $40

            2 m      3/8” heater hose

            2 x       1/2" plastic T pieces

            2 x       1/2" to 3/8” plastic reducers

            Lots of hose clamps
 

Pirtek, total                            $25

            2 x       18mm ID banjo fittings, crimp on

            1 x       Oil line made up, steel piping similar to standard pipe, ~12 mm? banjo fittings

Bunnings, total                       $12

            1 x       Rubber pipe joiner, ~60 mm ID (for joining PVC pipe)

R33 Skyline turbo